Pat's Wildways: Congaree National Park

Recently, I made the long drive up to Durham, North Carolina, to visit my niece Margaret and her family – a long overdue trip for me. But driving up congested, fast-moving Interstate 95 whitened my knuckles and tensed my whole body. Giant trucks surrounded me, fast vehicles precariously cut in front of me, and discourteous drivers drove me nuts. That’s it! It may take only eight hours to get to Durham this way, but never again for me.

So, on the way back south, I plotted a new route, “avoiding highways,” on my GPS. Sure, it took an overnight along the way, but why not? I am retired with no real appointments coming up. An extra day on the road suited me just fine. 

After hours spent Googling, I settled on a route with an overnight in Columbia, South Carolina. I found the perfect hotel, smack in the center of the city, the top hotel in the area according to Trip Advisor. The Hotel Trundle was created in three adjoining old buildings that once housed a hardware store, an auto parts store and a third establishment with glass-fronted and brick exteriors showcasing a bygone era. And behind the doors, the hotel had an artistic but soothing lobby, and, best of all, a free glass (or two) of wine to greet the road warrior. With dozens of restaurants to choose from within walking distance it was perfect!

But I didn’t pick Columbia just for the hotel. Just outside town is a national park I had never even heard of, the Congaree National Park. I managed my drive to get to Congaree National Park with plenty of time to explore before finally settling at the hotel. Upon entering the park, with its free admission, I was greeted by a volunteer ranger who directed me to the self-guided boardwalk map and told me that “Congaree is the poor cousin of the National Park Service.” It may be “poor” but it was rich enough for me.

In fact, it was amazing! I set off on the 2 ½ mile boardwalk, not sure I could do the whole loop with my nascent hip issues, but the 20 labeled stops along the way, explained in detail in the brochure, kept me moving forward until I was committed. Going forward or retracing my steps was the same distance. And there were well-placed benches along the way to rest my hip and soak in the clean air, the soothing quiet and the swamp forest vibes.

Congaree National Park protects 11,000 acres, remarkably the last remaining bit of old growth flood plain forest left in the eastern United States. This represents only 0.5% of old growth flood plain forest that once covered much of this part of the country but now has been logged, drained, built on and irreparably changed. But here, at least, there are giant trees, like tupelos, cypress and beech that are among the largest of their species. Standing under these trees is a humbling and powerful experience providing an immersion in a now unique habitat that demonstrates all that we have lost elsewhere.

As I walked along the boardwalk I stopped to listen to the robins that my Merlin Bird ID app noticed before I did. I parked on a bench watching the robins in a woodpile, and, in my extroverted way I introduced other passersby to the app for their phone too. Robins are now moving north. Some flocks are appearing on Amelia Island, too. When they get to their northern breeding destinations, they will pair up, but in South Carolina recently, they were still in their flock formation. A barred owl called out its “Who cooks for you” signature, cardinals, wrens and chickadees chirped their own choruses, and it was great to just sit and watch and listen while breathing in the clean forest air.

I had great luck that day when I visited Congaree NP. It was a warmish February day, sunny, and best of all, no bugs. Only a few other people shared that experience with me – some international visitors, some families, some dog walkers, and a few other lone souls like me soaking in the ambiance. It couldn’t have been better.

I encourage any of you looking for an overnight trip to visit Congaree NP and maybe even stay at the wonderful Hotel Trundle in Columbia. It was a serendipitous encounter for me, but rest assured, I will return and this time with Bucko in tow. He has to see it too!

Pat Foster-Turley, Ph.D., is a zoologist on Amelia Island. She welcomes your nature questions and observations. Patandbucko@yahoo.com