Czech and Double Czech

When my sister and I chose a spring walking trip several years ago, it proved to be as much a geography and history lesson as a vacation. Not the walking part — but finding the country on a map of Central Europe and trying to recall long-forgotten history lessons.

When the tough get confused, the tough go to the internet. Soon I was surfing, immersed in the daunting history of a remarkable crossroads of Europe.

The map of Central Europe is a true jigsaw puzzle, and few — including this seasoned traveler — could easily name the Czech Republic’s neighboring countries. Just so you know: Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Poland.

For such a small country, the Czech Republic has had a rich and eventful history. Czechs, Germans, Jews, and Slovaks — as well as Italian stonemasons and stucco workers, French tradesmen, and even deserters from Napoleon’s army — have all left their mark. Together, they cultivated the land and created enduring art and architecture that still inspire admiration.  

Like a soccer ball, what is now the Czech Republic has been kicked around by many “teams” —the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Third Reich, and the Soviet Union among them. Yet the heart and spirit of its people have endured—and today, they are thriving.

So how better to understand a country like this than to experience it step by step? An intrepid group of seventeen, outfitted with comfortable walking shoes, walking sticks, and waterproof jackets, began in Vienna and spent a week exploring the beauty and mystique of the Czech Republic.

As we walked, we talked. Our husband-and-wife guides, Rene and Marie, were gifted storytellers. Proud of their country, they shared a deep passion for music, dancing, sports, and a remarkable command of a history that has so often been tragic — and always consequential.

We moved through dark, mysterious forests, across brilliant yellow fields of safflower, and past peaceful fishponds. We wandered through fairy tale villages that have remained unchanged for centuries.

Walking through the dense forests, we came upon bunkers built in the 1930s to defend against Germany but never used. They are now tourist sites, museums, or privately owned. Along the way, we enjoyed hearty comfort food at welcoming stops —and always, a delicious, cold, thirst-quenching beer.

Our journey ended in the Czech Republic’s crown jewel — Prague. The city is a showstopper. It consistently ranks among the favorite cities of seasoned travelers. For more than a thousand years, it has been a political, cultural, and economic center of Europe. A city of bridges and cathedrals, it offers a surprise around every corner. Our city walking in Prague was less about stretching our legs and more about stop-and-start exploration, dodging traffic, and soaking in the sights.

Each of our walking trips offers unique experiences. The Czech walk was less about miles walked and more about centuries explored. So how do you take in 800 years of history in a single week?

One step at a time.